Michelin starred dinner with Andrew Pern at Star Inn the City York
The Star Inn The City, Museum Street, York, YO1 7DR
Not long after our recent visit to the Star Inn The City York, to attend an incredible evening hosted by Nigel Haworth from the Michelin starred Northcote, we were back at one of our favourite Yorkshire restaurants for an evening with the man himself. Michelin-starred Chef/Patron of the much-celebrated C14th thatched Star Inn at Harome, Andrew Pern, with a little help from the members of the brigade, cooked up a special menu of Harome inspired seasonal treats in the beautiful surroundings of their riverside restaurant.
As we arrived the bar was full to bursting of hungry diners having a pre-dinner drink before being seated and treated to a duo of canapés. From smoked salmon mouse served on a delicate Parmesan crisp to a generous braised beef and horseradish croquette. We knew we were in for another very special evening based on the canapés alone.
The first dish of the evening arrived shortly after finishing the canapés and what a perfect start to the dinner. Creamy truffled white onion soup served with a beer-braised salsify, foie gras nugget and finished of earthy, slightly peppery tahoon cress. Served up in an espresso cup and poured from a kettle at the table for a bit of added theatre. My partner described the dish perfectly “like heaven in a cup!”
Our next dish to be served and one I’d say I was a little apprehensive of at first, ‘Pressed ‘Haslet’ terrine of Harome shot game, quince jelly, Crabbie’s green ginger wine and roast chestnut brioche’. Sometimes game can be a little too heavy for my liking but the terrine was a real revelation. Quite light on the flavor, very fresh on the palate and matched perfectly with the quince jelly and the sharpness of green ginger wine dotted around the plate. Not only did the roast chestnut brioche definitely look the part, the subtle chestnut undertone worked really well with the game. The dish showcased the local and seasonal ingredients perfectly.
The following course, ‘Ampleforth apple brandy bisque, smoked lobster ravioli, puree of parsnip, granny smiths and herring caviar’ was another winning combination. Not for the faint hearted, each ingredient packed quite a punch from the locally brewed brandy sourced from Ampleforth Abbey that made up the bisque, to the deep rich smoky lobster both worked extremely well. The sharpness of the granny smith balanced the dish and the added herring caviar lifted it another level. I’d say this was one of my favourite dishes of the evening.
Next up, ‘Fillet of Harome village beef, served with Ox cheek ‘pie’ Bourgogne garnish, choux farci and heritage carrots’. The local beef fillet was like cutting through warm butter. Perfectly cooked, melted in the mouth and a great portion to match. Served with a light crispy pastry of the ‘pie’ encasing a rich tender braised ox cheek filling. The addition of the minced meat wrapped in cabbage and the heritage carrots rounded the dish off well to add a few more tastes and textures, the intense hit from the duxelle mushroom in the Bourgogne garnish complimented each ingredient- another dish to highlight what incredible local produce getting served up by Andrew and the team.
After such a great portion of local fillet of beef we were getting rather full, next up not one but two desserts. Firstly the beautifully presented dark chocolate and damson mouse, topped off with a creamy sloe gin ripple ice cream, mulled boozy brambles and a sharp fruit coulis. Another dish packed with big bold intense flavours. Dark chocolate, boozy fruits and silky ice cream = heaven!
Our final dish up next, rich sweet ‘Beenleigh blue ‘ewes milk’ cheese, Harome honey, candied walnut and date jam served on a chicory leaf’. This was an absolute sensation for me, really clean simple ingredients combining to make such an elegant dish. The chicory leaf was a great substitute for the usual crackers, especially after 5 courses. Yet again showcasing what great local ingredients like the Harome honey Andrew and the team utilise on a daily basis.
As the last course plates were cleared away and the coffees and homemade sweets were being served, diners were then greeted by Andrew and Operations Director Matt Hunter, to answer any questions about the amazing dishes of the evening. The addition not only to sample Andrew and the team’s cuisine but also a Q&A after the dinner really made the evening more of an experience. We can’t wait to see what the New Year brings for more exiting events at one of our favourite Yorkshire restaurants.
Visit The Star Inn the City’s York dedicated restaurant page
Visit The Star Inn at Harome’s dedicated North Yorkshire restaurant page