Review : The Park By Adam Jackson, York
THE PARK BY ADAM JACKSON YORK HAS NOW CLOSED
Located just a few minutes walk from York’s historic city walls, in the former townhouse of a Victorian gentleman, the recently awarded 3AA rosette The Park Restaurant by acclaimed Chef Adam Jackson serves a hyper-seasonal and ever-changing eight-course tasting menu. We finally got the chance to pay a visit to sample the delicious food on offer. Upon arriving to such a characterful setting, we were welcomed by staff and seated in their relaxed bar area to choose our first drinks of the evening and browse the taster menu ahead. Diners really are spoilt for choice with an abundance of wines, craft beers and spirits, plus a handpicked choice of paired wines by in-house Sommelier and Restaurant Manager Ben Macleod.
Not long after our G&T’s arrived we were served our first taste of the evening, creamy white onion soup topped off with a sharp salsa verde and toasted hazelnuts. Served with a homemade cheese straw this was heaven in a cup that left you wanting more. After polishing off our amuse bouche we were then taken through to the dining room. An extension from the main house, modern, spacious and relaxed with soft lighting and glass lantern ceiling. Full of atmosphere with couples blown away with each dish presented.
Our next course took the evening up another notch entirely and one of the most beautiful looking plates I’ve had the pleasure to eat in a while. A generous serving of white crab, garnished with sharp granny smith matchsticks, picked cucumber, toasted cashews, crunchy wild rice and radish. Dressed with a few splashes of a deep red curry to add heat and more flavour. Every bite was a different taste and texture sensation.
The second dish was an interesting one but another absolute triumph in taste. Freshly baked Lancashire bomber bread served with an intense marmite butter and sweet picked cucumber ribbons. The warm cheesy bomber bread and marmite butter was mouth-watering, with the picked cucumber balancing the sharp marmite taste.
Onto our vegetarian course, creamy and comforting butternut squash and sage risotto served with toasted pumpkin seeds and pine nuts, topped off with mouth-watering sweet and sour pepper, and garnished with tender stem broccoli.
Another masterclass in presentation up next. Delicately poached and cured salmon fillet served on a bed of beetroot puree and dill oil. Accompanied by a generous portion of salmon and caper tartar, sharp mustard yogurt, fresh dill, heritage beetroot and a crunchy homemade fennel seed crisp bread. So much thought had gone into this dish from the ‘wow’ you get from its presentation to the mustard yogurt complimenting the delicate salmon.
My personal favourite of the night, succulent fillet of beef served with a deep, rich, melt in the mouth braised ox cheek. We took full advantage of Ben’s wine pairing knowledge for this dish and tried their 2011 Château Haut-Monplaisir. What a foodie treat.
Onto our dessert courses next and thankfully not too over faced as the previous dishes had been perfectly portioned. Passion fruit sorbet and coconut cream served with a brandy snap biscuit and creamy chocolate mousse, finished with a chocolate cookie crumb and passion fruit sauce. The dish was a perfect addition to really cleanse the pallet after the rich beef dish.
Chef Adam really showcased the seasonal ingredients on offer with this next course. Perfectly poached rhubarb served with ginger ice cream, blood orange jelly, rhubarb compote, candied blood orange and a crumble crumb with candied blood orange peel to add a further dimension to such a brilliant dessert.
The final course of the evening, one where Adam’s take on a standard cheese course was turned completely on its head. Brillat-Savarin soft cheese rolled in toasted almonds then dressed with honey and truffle oil. Served with a moist rich homemade carrot cake and crackers. The honey almonds and truffle combined perfectly with the soft buttery cheese.
After coffees and petit fours it was time to head home, tummies fully satisfied. The waiters at The Park described every dish presented with passion and knowledge, adding to the experience as a whole in this grand Victorian building. As the menu at The Park changes practically every few weeks we are looking forward to visiting again soon to sample Adam’s brilliant food.
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