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The Rise Restaurant York Review by Sarah Cotterill
The Rise Restaurant York Review | Dining in Style at Yorkshire’s 5 Star Hotel
As you stroll along the esplanade, under the bank of daffodils leading up to the city walls, York Minster glides into view over Lendal Bridge. Just a stones through from the station, The Grand Hotel has long been associated with the railway industry, now sleeping, feeding and pampering travellers from far and wide. The once impressive Edwardian headquarters of the North Eastern Railway, now boasts a luxury vaulted spa, state of the art cookery school, two award-winning restaurants, and over two hundred rooms. Grand is an understatement.
The Rise opened in June 2018, as the hotel’s more relaxed dining option. Lounge jazz covers fill the long room, accessed through the reception’s tilled atrium, and the bar looks out onto a sleek terrace. There’s a linear quality to the art deco design, in keeping with their industrial heritage, halo light fittings reflecting in the neat rows of marble tables.
It’s a joy to see groups of families enjoying their evening meal; little boys in v-neck pullovers digging into grilled chicken skewers, charming the waiters, and chatting animatedly to their equally grown-up siblings. The smooth pace of service, eased us into the weekend, glass of Prosecco in hand, in the best possible way.
Hotels are the pinnacle of hospitality, but often shakey when it comes to menu originality and creative flair. But seeing The Rise chefs plate dishes on the bright pass next to you will soon cast any preconceptions aside. It’s utterly fascinating; the calm finesse to each sizzle and slick. The portions are small, but flavours fresh and harmonious.
Warm chunks of Haxby Sourdough comes on a textured slate next to a moussey salt-crusted beef butter, which hangs in it’s many holes. A circle of ham hock terrine is soft against a crispy potato crumb, topped with pearls of golden egg yolk. The charred sweet potato starter is an Ottolenghi-esque marriage of walnut pesto and glassy shards of pecorino. It has a comfortingly melt to it, yet a scorched undertone that keeps you on your toes.
Curled shrimp hide in squiggles of red quinoa, under a perfectly cooked fillet of sea trout. A sunshine yellow curried yoghurt offers a bit of coronation-chicken nostalgia to the dish, which is balanced with dark green bubbled cavelo nero. You’ll love the seasonal grilled lamb rump, with streaks of pureed squash, confit celeriac, and purple sprouting broccoli.
With just a spoon left on the wooden cutlery rack next to you, you’d be mad not to sample from the short list of desserts and cheeses. We tried the decadent dark chocolate delice, a sharp mirrored slice, decorated with fragments of salted caramel and gold leaf. This is patisserie to rival Betty’s. The quenelle of yoghurt sorbet and scattering of citrus micro herbs is just enough to cut through the richness. More culinary skills is on show with the treacle tart, warmly spiced, with the thinest of pastry cases, and griddled blood orange segments.
As napkins are folded, and mugs meet saucers for breakfast, you wonder how the evening has slipped away so peacefully. If you’re travelling to York, heading out or lucky enough to call it home, The Grand has it all under one impressive roof. Eating is universal and no matter the occasion or final destination, you’re in for a treat at The Rise. A nightcap at the oak-panelled bar, followed by a kip in one of the sumptuous suites, seems all too tempting.
The Rise York Restaurant Review Written by Sarah Cotterill, Photos by The Grand York
The Rise Restaurant & Terrace York Address & Opening Times
Address: The Grand Hotel, York YO1 6GD – 01904 380 045
Afternoon Tea is served daily: 12:00 pm – 15:45 pm
Lunch is served daily: 12:30 pm – 14:30 pm
Dinner is served daily: 18:00 pm – 21:30 pm
Book your table at The Rise online or call 01904 380 045